Photos: Courtesy of Unilock®

Base Thickness Chart

Soil condition - In areas with poor soil conditions, (eg., heavy clay, disturbed soils) increase the depth of the base to provide more stability. Where
poor soil conditions exist it may be advisable to contract an engineer when constructing a retaining wall in excess of 24” in height.

Basic Installation

Tools required

• Wheel Barrow
• Rake
• Level
• String
• Tape Measure
• Shovel
• Plate Compactor
• Guillotine and/or Masonry Saw
• Gloves
• Safety Glasses

Whether you're installing yourself, or hiring a Unilock Authorized Contractor, there are some basic procedures that we have outlined below that will help ensure a solid and attractive installation, an installation that will show your pride of ownership and increase the value of your home.

Step 1: Planning

Draw a plan view showing measurements and grade elevations.

Step 2: Preparation

Mark out the location of the patio, walkway, or driveway. Call local utilities and cable to mark locations (this is usually a free service).

Step 3: Excavation

Excavate the minimum required depth depending on your application. (See Base Thickness Chart). For walkways, excavate a minimum of 3" wider than the area. For driveways excavate a minimum of 6" wider than the area you are paving.

Step 4: Base

Fill the area with gravel. (See Base Thickness Chart.) Grade the base as closely as possible to the final contour of the finished job. Slope all installations away from the house or building for drainage purposes. (Minimum 8' slope over every 10 feet) The gravel should be 3" below finished height. Compact max. 3" thick at a time. Once gravel is down, lay your weed burrier fabric down shiny side up. Do this before you lay out your sand. 

Step 5: Screeding

Pavers are laid on a 1" bed of coarse sand, placed directly on the compacted base. (See cross-section) Use a 1" diameter pipe as a screeding guide on top of the gravel. Set up the guides so that your pavers are ¾" above the finished level to allow for compacting. Level the sand evenly by pulling a board along the pipes. Once you have completed the area, remove the guides, and fill in the grooves. Do not walk on the screeded surface.

Step 6: Laying the Pavers

Place the pavers directly on the screeded bed of sand. Start laying along the longest straight side. Keep lines straight using string lines. This will minimize the cutting required. It is important that the lines of your pavers are square, 90° to each other, to fit properly. If you are installing circles, fans, or a soldier course (a border of pavers around the perimeter of the area) you will want to place these first before installing the rest of the pattern.

Step 7: Cutting

You may need to cut pavers that don't fit along edges or around objects. Mark the pavers and cut with either a guillotine cutter or masonry saw. A guillotine cutter is the easiest method of cutting but for an exact cut, a "dry cut" masonry saw or a tub-style "wet saw" works best. These can be rented at your local rental outlet. Always wear appropriate safety gear when cutting.

Step 8: Edging

Edge restraints are a critical element to the durability of a paver installation. They prevent the pavers from moving and shifting over time. You can find a wide variety of edgings here at Select Stone.

Step 9: Compacting

After the installation is complete, including edge restraints, the pavers must be swept clean and then compacted with a plate compactor. This helps settle the pavers into the bedding sand and creates a flat surface. (For patterns such as circles, you may want to put some jointing sand in first to stabilize the smaller pieces.) We recommend a minimum of three passes with the compactor going in different directions.

Step 10: Finishing